Top 5 Thanksgiving Ice Creams


The final ideas for a fabulous Thanksgiving.

It’s Thanksgiving, Reinvented. . . . .

Top Ten Thanksgiving Dishes, Part Three

9.  Top 5 Thanksgiving Ice Creams.  Ice cream is a great canvas for seasonal flavors of sweet potato, pumpkin, nuts, and spice. Some are from widely distributed makers, others are from artisan makers. A Thanksgiving ice cream is a great addition to the menu, and it can be back-up if someone forgets to bring dessert or the dog eats the pie.

Sweet Potato with Torched Marshmallows
Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams in Columbus, Ohio



Pumpkin Spice Gelato
Black Dog in Chicago, Illinois.




Spiced Pumpkin Pecan  

Pumpkin Ice Cream
Graeter’s in Cincinnati, Ohio  

Pumpkin Roll Ice Cream
Pumpkin flavored ice cream with a cream cheese frosting swirl and cake pieces—the best of both worlds!
Moomers Homemade Ice Cream in Traverse City, Michigan.

10.  Being Grateful.  As you sit around the Thanksgiving table, make sure you count your blessings.  What are you thankful for this year?
I’m grateful for you, the many readers of this blog, among many blessings in my life.
So, thank you!  And please pass the ice cream. . . .


Top Ten Thanksgiving Dishes, Part Two


It’s Thanksgiving, Reinvented. . . . .

More ideas for a fabulous Thanksgiving, for which you and your family will truly be thankful.
  
6.  A Pumpkin Dessert.  I have to admit.  I love pumpkin desserts—pumpkin cake roll, pumpkin brownies, pumpkin cake—but not pumpkin pie so much. Of all the pumpkin cakes, this one is my favorite.  It’s got an upside-down caramel topping and is so moist and fresh-tasting, you might never go back to pie.



Fresh Pumpkin Cake
Somewhere between a flan and a cheesecake in texture, this moist and delicious burnt orange-colored cake has a thin coating of caramel when it is turned out of the pan. Use small sugar or pie pumpkins that come on the market in October, or in a pinch, canned pumpkin. Fresh pumpkin adds the best flavor, though. This is gorgeous garnished with red, yellow, orange, or variegated edible flowers and leaves.
Makes a one-layer (8-inch) cake
1 1/2 pounds fresh pumpkin, peeled, seeded, and cut into pieces (or a 15-ounce can pumpkin, not pie filling)
1 quart water
2 cups sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2 cups milk
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 large eggs
1. Place the pumpkin, water, and salt into a large saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until the pumpkin is tender, about 30 minutes.
2. Place a wire rack on a kitchen counter. Pour 1 cup of the sugar in the bottom of an 8-inch  metal cake pan. Place the pan directly on a burner over medium heat. When the sugar has melted and turned a light gold, about 10 minutes, put an oven mitt on one hand and swirl the pan to coat the bottom and sides with the caramel. Transfer the pan to a wire rack.
3. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Drain the pumpkin and place in a large bowl. With an electric mixer, beat the pumpkin and butter together until smooth. Beat in the flour and milk a little at a time, alternating between the two. Beat in the salt, vanilla, and remaining 1 cup sugar until you have a smooth batter. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Sieve the batter into the caramelized pan and place the pan in a large, shallow baking pan filled with 1 inch of hot water.
3. Bake for 2 hours, or until the cake has pulled away from the sides of the pan and a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove the pan from the water bath and cool on a wire rack.
4. When the cake has cooled, carefully loosen the sides, if necessary, and invert onto a cakestand or serving plate. Garnish with fresh flowers and serve.

7. A Signature Cocktail.  I recently did a wedding food story and talked with Ryan Maybee, a craft cocktail guru at Manifesto in Kansas City. When I asked about cocktails for a crowd, I envisioned an army of bartenders.  But Maybee insists that one of the first American cocktails is great to serve a crowd. It’s also currently enjoying a revival, and can give you something to do with Aunt Hilda’s punch bowl stored under your bed.

What is the mystery drink? Punch!  Not after-church or room-mother, 7-Up punch, but punch that really packs a wallop. It’s what George and Martha served at the White House, the cup of good cheer that Thomas Jefferson gave to visitors at Monticello—and a good time was had by all. 

According to Maybee, a great punch needs 5 elements: a strong spirit (booze), something acidic (citrus fruit or tart apple), something sweet, something watery, and something spicy. This 18th century punch recipe has all of that, and it’s easy.  Just give the kids (and Aunt Hilda) the cider without the booze.

Try an artisan hard cider such as Apple True www.aeppeltreow.com  from Wisconsin, Tandem Ciders in Leelanau peninsula in upper Michigan, or Sutliff Cider www.sutliffcider.com near Iowa City in Iowa.



Thanksgiving Cider Punch
Makes 12 servings
2 cups applejack, hard cider, scrumpy, or Calvados
1 quart fresh apple cider
Cinnamon sticks and lemon twists for garnish
1. In a large bowl, stir together the applejack and cider. Fill each cocktail glass or punch cup with ice and pour in the punch. Garnish with a cinnamon stick and a twist of fresh lemon.

8. A Side Dish on the Grill.  Couldn’t be easier, or make more sense. Send some of the guys outside and free your oven up at the same time.


Grilled Squash and Apple Rings with Buttery Cinnamon Baste
Cut Golden Delicious apples into 1-inch thick slices, then remove the core from each slice with a paring knife.  Cut acorn squash into 1-inch slices and remove the seeds and fibrous material in the center of each slice with a paring knife.  Microwave the squash slices for about 3 to 4 minutes on HIGH or until they’re par-cooked.  In a bowl, whisk 4 tablespoons melted butter with ¼ cup packed dark brown sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Brush the rings with this mixture and grill over medium-high heat until the squash is cooked through and both squash and apple rings have good grill marks.
These can be done ahead of time and kept warm on the grill, wrapped in aluminum foil.



Top Ten Thanksgiving Dishes, Reinvented--Part One


Fresh air, fine living, fabulous ideas.  
That’s the Alfresco way--especially for Thanksgiving!

On Wednesday night this week, I participated in a Les Dames d’Escoffier holiday fundraiser for a backpack snack program for kids in need, administered by our local food bank Harvesters. We all brought out our best Thanksgiving recipes to prepare and share with attendees.
Some families require that Thanksgiving stay the same, usually with an 1870s menu that Laura Ingalls Wilder’s family would have enjoyed: roast turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy, hot rolls, and pumpkin pie.
Every family has its favorites, including mine, but tastes can change. New friends and family members can grace your table (and bring a new set of must-haves).
And it doesn’t hurt to try something new--or use your outdoor kitchen more for this feast.
So, here are tasty ways to reinvent Thanksgiving classics.

1.  Turkey.  Last year for Thanksgiving, my sister and I brined a 20-pound heirloom turkey Wednesday night, covered with ice, then started roasting it early Thanksgiving morning.  It turned out moist and delicious.
The guys in our family deep-fried a grocery store turkey that was on sale the day after Thanksgiving, and it was even more moist and delicious!  The moral of the story is—expand your turkey horizons.
If you have traditionalists at your house, then do turkey the expected way. But it doesn’t hurt to try turkey a new way—it could become the favorite. As an alternate turkey that tastes great for a smaller crowd, I love Brie and Basil–Stuffed Turkey Breast , smoked outdoors. And it frees up the oven!



Brie and Basil–Stuffed Turkey Breast
Suggested wood: Fruitwood, grapevines, pecan, oak, or maple
Serves 4
2 boneless, skinless turkey breast halves (about 3 pounds total)
1 tablespoon olive oil
8 ounces Brie
8 to 10 fresh basil leaves
4 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto
1. Prepare an indirect fire in your grill. In a charcoal grill, bank the charcoal in the middle so you can put a turkey breast on either side of the coals but not over them. In a gas grill, turn on the middle burner, so you can put a turkey breast on either side of the flame but not over it.
2. Add wood. In a charcoal grill, add 3 sticks or chunks of wood to the coals once they have ashed over.  In a gas grill, put 1 cup of dry wood chips in a metal smoker box or an aluminum foil packet with holes punched in it so the smoke can escape; put the smoker box or packet close to a burner.
3. Rinse the turkey and pat dry. Lightly coat both breasts with the olive oil. Make a pocket slit in the thicker side of each turkey breast. Place 3 to 4 thin slices of Brie inside each slit. Tuck 4 or 5 fresh basil leaves evenly on top of the cheese. Wrap each breast with half of the prosciutto. Place the turkey on either side of the fire. When you see the first wisp of smoke from the wood, cover the grill, and smoke until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the breast registers 160 to 165°F, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. The turkey will have a hint of pink from the smoke. Let rest for about 10 minutes before cutting into 3/8-inch-thick slices. Serve warm.

2. Sweet Potatoes.  Some sweet potato dishes are so sweet, they practically make your teeth hurt. Why not try a roasted sweet potato dish, especially if you can find sweet potato fingerlings at a farmer’s market? You simply toss the sweet potatoes with olive oil, add chopped red onion and fresh rosemary, season to taste, and roast in a 400°F oven, stirring a couple of times, until they’re tender and caramelized in about 45 minutes.


  
3. Cranberries.  My food stylist friend Vicki Johnson makes a cranberry sauce that has so much flavor, you could eat it with a spoon. If you’re looking to change up your recipe, this is a great one to try.  It’s fabulous with turkey, over a mild cheese as an appetizer, or as an extra side dish. The only trick is caramelizing the sugar with the vinegar first--for a while, it just boils and stays white. Then, all of a sudden, it starts to go brown, so keep an eye on it. Freeze bags of cranberries to use for use in January and February, when this vibrant flavor and color will perk you right up.

Winter Cranberry Relish
Makes 4 cups
1 cup dark or golden raisins, covered with boiling water in a bowl
2 cups granulated sugar
1 tablespoon white vinegar
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
2 tablespoons freshly grated orange zest
1 cup orange juice
6 cups (two 12-ounce bags) cranberries
1 1/2 cups peeled and diced Granny Smith apples
1 cup slivered, toasted almonds
1. Let the raisins plump in the water  for 15 minutes, then drain.
2. While the raisins are plumping, combine the sugar and vinegar in a large saucepan over medium heat until the sugar starts to bubble. Cook until the mixture turns a medium brown, about 5 minutes, but watch it all the way.
3. Stir in the ginger, orange zest and juice and bring to a boil.  Add the cranberries and cook for 5 minutes or until the cranberries burst their skins. Stir in the raisins, apples, and almonds.  Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

4. Brussels Sprouts. If you’ve been boiling your sprouts to death, there’s another way—roasting! Halve fresh sprouts, toss them with a little olive oil and some finely chopped pancetta or bacon, then roast them in a 400°F oven, stirring occasionally. You can roast these the day before until they’re still slightly crisp, then warm them in the oven—or do this all outside on the grill in a disposable aluminum pan, with the grill lid down. 
  
5. Pumpkin. Okay, most of us do pumpkin pie.  But you can also make fabulous Pumpkin Pullaparts with a no-knead dough.  You can bake them the day before or the morning of, them warm them before serving. The recipe is in this blog’s 2009 archive.






Kale, Kale the Flavor's All Here!


In Vegetarian or Meatless Monday Dishes

Cold weather kale is getting a taste makeover. 

If you remember kale as a boiled-to-death vegetable 
in a one-pot meal, then here’s a surprising twist. 

Kale can be crunchy and absolutely delicious.

Lacinato Kale
Crunchy Kale
Adapted from Heartland: The Cookbook. This tastes great served like potato chips or as a side dish.

Kale Ready for the Oven

1 bunch kale, such as curly, Lacinato, Russian, or Dino
2 tablespoons canola oil
½ cup freshly grated Asiago, Parmesan, or Gruyere
1. Preheat the oven to 350 °F.
2. Trim the tough ends from the kale and cut the leaves into 1-inch pieces. Arrange on a baking sheet, drizzle with oil, and toss to blend.
3. Bake for 10 minutes, then open the oven door and stir the kale with a wooden spoon. Bake for another 10 minutes, then open the door again and sprinkle the kale with the grated cheese. Bake for a final 30 minutes or until the kale is crunchy.

Crunchy Kale


This fall, I’ve done several cooking classes around the country, serving up simmering soups and a fabulous flatbread that features crunchy kale as a topping.
The flatbread is easy to do--especially if you have a bowl of dough on hand in the fridge--and can turn a Meatless Monday into a “Can’t Wait” occasion.

Easy Artisan Dough Makes bread, rolls, pizza, or flatbread
Adapted from 200 Fast & Easy Artisan Breads.  
2 tbsp  instant or bread machine yeast         
1 ½ tbsp           fine kosher salt          
6 1/2 cups       all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting       
3 cups  lukewarm water, about 100°F           
1. Mix. Add the yeast and salt to the flours. Stir together with a wooden spoon or Danish dough whisk. Pour in the water and stir together until just moistened. Beat 40 strokes, scraping the bottom and the sides of the bowl, until the dough forms a lumpy, sticky mass.
2. Rise. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature 72°F for 2 hours or until the dough has risen near the top of the bowl and has a sponge-like appearance.
4. Use Right Away or Refrigerate. Use that day or place the dough, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to 9 days before baking.



Flatbread with Crispy Kale, Black Olives, and Goat Cheese
Makes 1 flatbread to serve 16 as an appetizer
½ recipe prepared Easy Artisan Dough
Unbleached, all-purpose flour for dusting
4 tbsp  olive oil, divided use
8 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
½ cup chopped, pitted Kalamata olives
1 pound fresh kale, leaves torn from the stems       
2 cups hot water for broiler pan

1. Form. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. To form the flatbread, remove half of the dough with a serrated knife and a dough scraper. The remaining dough in the bowl will deflate somewhat. Transfer the dough portion to a floured surface. Flour the dough and your hands. Transfer the dough to the prepared pan. Working the dough as little as possible and adding flour as necessary, pat the dough into to fit the pan. Lightly flour any sticky places on the dough. The dough should feel soft and smooth all over, like a baby’s skin, but not at all sticky.
2. Rest.  Cover with a tea towel and let rest at room temperature for 40 minutes.
3. Prepare Oven for Artisan Baking. About 30 minutes before baking, place a broiler pan on the lower shelf and a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven. Preheat to 450°F (230 °C).
4. Top Flatbread. When ready to bake, the dough will not have risen much, but will finish rising dramatically in the oven. Pour 2 tbsp of the olive oil into a bowl and with the kale until the kale leaves are shiny. Arrange the kale on the dough and top with crumbled goat cheese and black olives. Drizzle with remaining olive oil.
5. Slide Flatbread onto Baking Stone and Add Water to Broiler Pan. Using an oven mitt, carefully pull the middle rack of the oven out several inches. Place the pan of flatbread on the hot stone. Pull the lower rack out, pour the hot water into the broiler pan, and push the lower rack back in place. Close the oven door immediately so the steam will envelop the oven.
6. Bake.  Bake for 27 to 30 minutes or until the crust is lightly browned. Transfer to a rack to cool.

Northern Lights and Cheese Pockets



It has been a week of cosmic synchronicities and random pork chops.  

Let me explain.

The week started off with a fabulous display of the Northern Lights, usually not visible this far south. Photo by Randy Halversen and River Halversen.



 Louise Erdrich wrote about the aurora borealis in her novel Love Medicine, which I used in Heartland:

“Everything seems to be one piece.  The air, our faces, all cool, moist and dark, and the ghostly sky. . . .All of a piece. . . .As if the sky were a pattern of nerves and our thoughts and memories traveled across it. . . . As if the sky were one gigantic memory for us all.”

And then one particular memory did come back, in the form of a story by Polly Campbell in the Cincinnati Enquirer about “cheese pockets,” a wonderful coffeecake much beloved in our family. You can see the square coffeecake made with a sweet yeast dough folded over a sweet cheese filling, then sprinkled with sugar. You can also see what a cheese pocket looks like when you cut it into pieces—and who can eat just one piece?

Here's the link (but I also have a pdf available below, as these links aren't always permanent):


Cheese pockets made me homesick for Ohio, the prettiness there of the old Federal-style brick buildings, the trees changing colors, the quality of light you get in late fall.  I came across a blog by a fellow Wittenberg alum, and she understands it, too.  The calm, small town beauty that you can still find in the Midwest.


And the surprises, too. 

I was out walking Mimi the dog in my Kansas neighborhood when she suddenly became very interested in someone’s front yard.  A little too interested.

When I looked to see what she had in her mouth, it turned out to be a perfectly grilled, boneless pork chop, still warm. Dog heaven! 

And for you, too, a little serendipity—the recipe for Cheese Pockets.
The no-knead dough simply mixes up in a bowl--with a Danish dough whisk, if you like-- and rises on your kitchen counter in 2 hours. Easy. 






You can bake with the dough that day, or cover and store it in the fridge for up to 3 days before baking.  Both recipes are adapted from 200 Fast & Easy Artisan Breads.

Cheese Pocket Coffee Cake

Known in German as schmierkuchen, this easy coffee cake is the essence of home baking. Sweet and yeasty, with a mellow filling, a piece of this served with fresh berries is a good reason to wake up in the morning.

Makes 2 coffee cakes, to serve 12 to 16

Equipment
Rolling pin
Two 8-inch (20 cm) square baking pans

1/2       recipe prepared Easy Artisan Sweet Dough (below) 
            Unbleached bread flour
1/2 cup            granulated sugar          125 mL
1 tbsp  all-purpose flour          15 mL
1/2 tsp fine kosher or sea salt  2 mL
2          eggs, beaten    2
1-1/2 cups        small-curd cottage cheese (about 12 oz/375 g)           375 mL
1/4 cup            heavy or whipping (35%) cream         50 mL
1 tsp    vanilla extract  5 mL

Topping:
Granulated or sanding sugar for dusting

1.         Form. Divide the dough in half. Transfer one half to a floured surface and dust very lightly with flour. Flour your hands and the rolling pin. Working the dough as little as possible and adding flour as necessary, roll out into a 12-inch square. Drape the dough over the rolling pin and transfer to one of the baking pans, fitting the dough into the bottom and up the sides. Repeat with the remaining dough.
2.         Rest. Cover with a tea towel and let rest at room temperature for 40 minutes.
3.         Preheat. About 30 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 350°F (230°C).
4.         Prepare filling. Five minutes before baking, in a food processor, combine sugar, flour, salt, egg, cottage cheese, cream and vanilla; process until smooth. Pour half the filling into each pan. Drape the sides of the dough over the filling. For the topping, sprinkle with sugar.
5.         Bake. Bake for 20 to 23 minutes or until filling has browned and crust is a medium reddish-brown. Transfer to a wire rack to cool

Master Recipe #7
Easy Artisan Sweet Dough

Substituting milk for the water and adding sugar, melted butter and eggs to Easy Artisan Dough transforms it into a sweet dough. With these additions, the dough is heavier, and thus needs more yeast — and stronger unbleached bread flour — to make it rise and achieve the appropriate crumb. Sweet dough recipes do best when baked on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper (sweet fillings can ooze out of the dough and blacken on your baking stone), and at a lower temperature: 400°F (200°C). With this master dough, you can produce wonderful coffee cakes, festive breads and sweet rolls with a moist, feathery crumb. The dough will last for only 3 days in the refrigerator before it turns bitter.

Equipment
Instant-read thermometer
8-cup (2 L) bowl
4-cup (1 L) glass measuring cup
Wooden spoon or Danish dough whisk

6-1/2 cups        unbleached bread flour           1.625 L
2 tbsp  instant or bread machine yeast            25 mL
1-1/2 tbsp        fine kosher salt            22 mL
2-1/2 cups        lukewarm milk (about 100°F/38°C)    625 mL
1 cup   granulated sugar          250 mL
1/2 cup            unsalted butter, melted           125 mL
2          large eggs       

1.         Measure. Spoon the flour into a measuring cup, level with a knife or your finger, then dump the flour into a large mixing bowl.
2.         Mix. Add the yeast and salt to the flour. Stir together with a wooden spoon or Danish dough whisk. In the glass measuring cup, combine milk, sugar and butter. Using a fork, beat in eggs
  Pour into the flour mixture and stir together until just moistened. Beat 40 strokes, scraping the bottom and the sides of the bowl, until the dough forms a lumpy, sticky mass.
3.         Rise. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature (72°F/22°C) in a draft-free place for 2 hours or until the dough has risen to about 2 inches (5 cm) under the rim of the bowl and has a sponge-like appearance.
4.         Use right away or refrigerate. Use that day or place the dough, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days before baking.

Tips
*          Microwaving cold milk for about 2 minutes on High will result in lukewarm milk of approximately 100°F (38°C).
*          Before storing the dough in the refrigerator, use a permanent marker to write the date on the plastic wrap, so you’ll know when you made your dough — and when to use it up 3 days later.


If you'd like me to send you a pdf of the Cheese Pocket story, then please e-mail me at






Bacon + Bread


Fougasse aux Grattons—That’s French for Yum!

What a week! I started out at Lake Austin Spa just outside of Austin, Texas, where I taught culinary classes with Karen Adler.  Just looking at the photos of the spa makes you relax.

Ahhhhhh…  Or is that Ommmmmm?


Secondly, Jon Brick of OutsideLines Travel sent me their cool video of Tory Miller, the talented chef at L’Etoile and Graze in Madison, Wisconsin. Miller pulls his iconic red wagon from stall to stall at the Madison Farmer’s Market, then chooses the best of what’s in season for his menus. What an inspired idea to do a smushed (that’s a culinary term) round of goat cheese warmed in the oven, then a salad on top! You can read more about him and the Madison Farmer's Market--the largest in the United States-- in Heartland.

http://www.outsidelinestravel.com/City/MADISON--WISCONSIN/Post/LETOILE%20AND%20GRAZE--75


Thirdly, I had a meeting in Kansas City to talk about photos for my upcoming book I Love Cinnamon Rolls! with Andrews McMeel (fall 2012) and a sampling of cinnamon rolls. That's a tough job, but somebody has to do it.

The fabulous Ben Pieper http://www.benpieperphoto.com/ is doing the cinnamon roll photos. He also did the lick-the-page  food photos for Heartland.

Number Four Event of the Week. My son is having a big birthday, which means I’m starting to tell people I got married in my Girl Scout uniform. . . .

We’ve also had our first frost.  And that heralds Bread Baking Season, if you haven’t been baking before now.

I was just at Costco and saw all the bread machines for sale.  That’s right in line with bread books like The Artisan Bread Machine flying out the door.

If you don’t have that electric baking assistant, the automatic bread machine, you can still get a little help.  No-knead dough just stirs together in a bowl, then sits on your kitchen counter to rise all by itself. It does just what you told it to do.  Rise!



When you marry this easy-to-get-along-with dough with great bacon, well, what’s not to love?

In Fougasse aux Grattons, or French Flatbread with Bacon Bits, you can have a wonderful flatbread to go with soups and stews or an appetizer bread that’s just as delicious with beer and wine.

Fougasse is a dough you roll out like long pizza, then cut slits through it with a pizza wheel or knife. The slits make a decorative pattern as the flatbread bakes. Then, you brush it with bacon fat for even more flavor. 



The grattons are little pieces of bacon cooked crisp with dry white wine. You scatter them over the dough, then roll them into it before you cut the slits in the dough. Easy. Use an artisan Midwestern bacon, of course.



Although you don’t have to use a baking stone to make this recipe, it does make your oven function better. A baking stone's surface gets hot all over to the correct temperature, so anything you place on it bakes evenly.  Even though your oven might say 400°F, there are still hotter and cooler spots. The baking stone evens the baking field, so to speak.

The finished flatbread is crisp on the outside, bacon-y on the inside, and 100% delicious.


So, here it is (and in 200 Fast & Easy Artisan Breads).

Fougasse aux Grattons
Makes flatbread to serve 24

Dough:
1 tbsp  instant or bread machine yeast         
3/4 tbsp           fine kosher salt          
3 1/4 cups       all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting       
1 1/2 cups       lukewarm water, about 100°F

Filling:
1 cup dry white wine             
16 slices smoked bacon or 16 oz pancetta, finely diced       
2 cups  hot water for broiler pan       
           
1. Measure. Spoon the flours into a measuring cup, level with a knife or your finger, then dump the flour into a large mixing bowl.

2. Mix. Add the yeast and salt to the flours. Stir together with a wooden spoon or Danish dough whisk. Pour in the water and stir together until just moistened. Beat 40 strokes, scraping the bottom and the sides of the bowl, until the dough forms a lumpy, sticky mass.

3. Rise. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature 72°F for 2 hours or until the dough has risen near the top of the bowl and has a sponge-like appearance.

4. Use Right Away or Refrigerate. Use that day or place the dough, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to 9 days before baking.

5.  Make Filling. Combine the wine and bacon in a skillet over medium heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the fat has rendered and the bacon has browned, about 35 to 40 minutes. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Reserve the melted fat in the skillet. Divide the bacon into two portions.

6. Form. To form the flatbread, remove the dough and cut in half. Transfer one dough portion to a floured surface and dust very lightly with flour. Flour the rolling pin. Working the dough as little as possible and adding flour as necessary, roll the dough into a 12-inch/3 cm by 6-inch (15 cm) oval. Lightly flour any sticky places on the dough. The dough should feel soft and smooth all over, like a baby’s skin, but not at all sticky.

7. Fill. Arrange ¼ of on portion of the grattons on the upper half of the dough. Fold the other half over the filling. Turn the dough a quarter turn. Working the dough as little as possible and adding flour as necessary, roll the dough again into a 12-inch/30 cm by 6-inch (15 cm) oval. Again, arrange ¼ of the grattons on the upper half of the dough. Fold the other half over the filling. Turn the dough a quarter turn and roll into an oval. Repeat the process until all of the grattons have been incorporated into the dough. Repeat the process with the remaining dough and filling.

8. Cut. With the dough in a 12-inch/3 cm by 6-inch (15 cm) oval, use a pizza wheel or a sharp knife to cut two rows of 4 diagonal slashes, about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm), that almost meet in the middle of the dough like this: /  \.  Transfer the dough to the prepared baking sheet and pull the top and sides of the dough to stretch it to a larger oval with opened slits . Brush the surface of the dough with the melted bacon fat.

9. Rest. Cover with a tea towel and let rest at room temperature for 40 minutes.

10. Prepare Oven for Artisan Baking. About 30 minutes before baking, place a broiler pan on the lower shelf and a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven. Preheat to 450°F (230 °C).

11. Slide Baking Pan onto Baking Stone and Add Water to Broiler Pan. Using an oven mitt, carefully pull the middle rack of the oven out several inches. Place the pan of fougasse on the hot stone. Pull the lower rack out, pour the hot water into the broiler pan, and push the lower rack back in place. Close the oven door immediately so the steam will envelop the oven.

12. Bake. Bake for 22 to 25 minutes or until the crust is medium-brown. Transfer to a rack to cool.