Pumpkin Pullaparts

I’ve been doing a lot of cooking classes lately—at KitchenArt in West Lafayette, Indiana ; at A Thyme for Everything in Lee’s Summit, Missouri; and at The Bayleaf in Lawrence, Kansas. The classes are so much fun because the people who attend make them fun—they ask questions, get involved as much as they desire, and laugh at all my jokes and stories about “Ou est la guerre?” adventures.

And they’re still amazed that you can make great bread by stirring simple ingredients together in a bowl, putting it on the kitchen counter to rise for 2 hours, then refrigerating or baking with it.

I’m amazed myself that I’m still fiddling with this after my cookbook is already out, but there’s something about this “play dough” that makes you want to come up with new riffs on old favorites.

When I was researching, testing recipes for, and writing Prairie Home Breads a few years ago, I was startled to discover that my maternal great grandfather (my grandpa’s father), Benjamin Vanderhorst, had turned his kitchen into a bakery after he lost his job during the Depression. He made coffee cakes, white bread, and cloverleaf rolls—from a recipe that he got from my maternal great grandmother (my grandma’s mom) Gertrude Willenborg.

I’m adding a new roll recipe for a new generation—these pumpkin pullaparts that are easy to make, beautiful to behold, and delicious to eat. They’re going to feature on our family’s Thanksgiving table this year, and I hope on yours, too.

Of course, even after I developed this recipe, I couldn’t stop fooling around with it.  You make the dough, let it rise, then chill for at least 30 minutes (so this rich dough is easier to roll out).  When you roll the dough out, you can spread it with butter, pumpkin butter, or whatever sounds good to you.  I’ve used canned butternut squash puree in the dough, spread the risen and chilled dough with butter, then sprinkled it with a dried herb mixture for Herbed Squash Rolls.  I’ve also spread the dough with butter and sprinkled it with Parmesan—it’s a wonderful counterpoint to the richness of the dough.
How will you make this recipe your own? 

Pumpkin Pullaparts

This recipe will make enough pullaparts for 24 to 28 people—enough for your Thanksgiving or autumn feast. And the leftovers can go in the freezer for up to 3 months (or make a wonderful bread pudding). The brioche dough, made with the no-knead method, turns even more golden—and a little less rich—when you add cooked, pureed squash or pumpkin. Adapted from my 200 Fast & Easy Artisan Breads (Robert Rose, 2009).

Makes rolls to serve 24 to 28 people

For the Dough:
6 1/2 cups unbleached bread flour, plus more for dusting
2 tbsp instant or bread machine yeast
1 ½ tbsp fine kosher salt   
½ cup granulated sugar   
½ cup buttermilk   
1 cup unsalted butter, melted   
8 large eggs, beaten
1 cup cooked/canned, pureed pumpkin or butternut squash
¾ cup lukewarm water, about 100°F (38 °C)   
For the Filling:
8 tbsp    unsalted butter, softened (or 1 cup pumpkin butter)
For the Egg Wash:
1 large egg mixed with 1 tbsp (15 mL) water for egg wash

For Baking:   
2 cups    hot water for broiler pan   

1. Measure. Spoon the flour into a measuring cup, level with a knife or your finger, then dump the flour into a large mixing bowl.

2. Mix. Add the yeast, salt, and sugar to the flour. Stir together with a wooden spoon or Danish dough whisk. Combine the buttermilk and butter and add to the flour mixture, then the eggs. Combine the squash and water and stir into the flour mixture. Beat 40 strokes, scraping the bottom and the sides of the bowl, until the dough forms a lumpy, sticky mass.

3. Rise. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature 72°F (22 °C) for 2 hours or until the dough has risen near the top of the bowl and has a sponge-like appearance.

4. Use Right Away or Refrigerate. Use that day or place the dough, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days before baking.

5.  Form. To form the pull-aparts, remove half of the dough. Transfer the dough portion to a floured surface and dust very lightly with flour. Flour your hands. Working the dough as little as possible and adding flour as necessary, roll the dough into a 12 by 8-inch (30 by 20 cm) rectangle. For the filling, spread half the filling over the dough with a spatula or knife, leaving a ½-inch (1 cm) perimeter. Starting with a long end, roll the dough into a cylinder with your hands. If the dough begins to stick to the surface, use the dough scraper to push flour under the dough and scrape it up. Gently press and squeeze as you’re rolling to form the dough into a solid cylinder. With a pastry brush, brush off any excess flour. With the dough scraper, slice the cylinder into 1-inch (2 cm) pieces.  Arrange the pieces, vertically—so the filling doesn’t show--in a pinwheel fashion in buttered 8-inch cake pans so that the rolls are almost touching.  Repeat the process with the remaining dough. Mix the egg wash ingredients together and brush over the tops of the rolls.

6. Rest. Cover with a tea towel and let rest at room temperature for 40 minutes.

7. Prepare Oven for Artisan Baking. About 30 minutes before baking, place a broiler pan on the lower shelf and a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200 °C).

8. Slide Baking Pan onto Baking Stone and Add Water to Broiler Pan. Using an oven mitt, carefully pull the middle rack of the oven out several inches. Place the pan of rolls on the hot stone. Pull the lower rack out, pour the hot water into the broiler pan, and push the lower rack back in place. Close the oven door immediately so the steam will envelop the oven.

9. Bake. Bake for 32 to 34 minutes or until an instant read thermometer inserted in the center of the rolls registers at least 190°F (90 °C). Cool on a wire rack.

You Can Also Use: Canned pure pumpkin (not pumpkin pie filling), fresh or frozen butternut squash that has been cooked and pureed, frozen or canned sweet potatoes that have been cooked and pureed.

*judith

Three Little Words

Now that I’ve got great bread down to four ingredients, flour, instant or bread machine yeast, salt, and water, I’m thinking about other ways to make my domestic life simpler yet richer. And three little words seem to be doing all the heavy lifting.  Which three words?  Read on.

In writing a story for Natural Awakenings Magazine on “Coming Home to Yourself” on creating a home that truly reflects who you are, I really thought about the advice of interior designer Alexandra Stoddard.

In her book Feeling at Home, Stoddard lists 15 elements that contribute to the emotional intelligence of a home:  light, a view outside, color, comfortable furniture, change (periodic rearrangement of elements), privacy, fresh air, nature, beauty, art, order, a working kitchen, a home library and favorite objects.

Order, Nature, Beauty. . . and Apples!

I can’t work on all 15 at once, but I can tackle three.  So my “three little words” for this month are order, nature, and beauty.  Preparing doughs for cooking classes means a constant mess in the kitchen—flour seems to go everywhere—so I need to keep things tidy.  In the fall, I’m reminded anew of the natural beauty here in the Midwest, so I’ll probably gather those beautiful lime green hedge apples or Osage oranges that look so fabulous massed in a bowl. They’re free for the taking.  Then, there are throw pillows and table skirts to switch out from summer to fall as the seasons turn yet again.

This fresh energy comes from a complete change of pace this weekend. A day out in the country always seems to clear the brain, as did today’s trek to Alldredge Orchards in Platte County, Missouri . The skies changed from tumultuous to sunny as I drove the winding country roads past gnarled vineyards, golden soybean fields, and green-leaved trees that are just beginning to sport their fall foliage.  My friend Tina, her husband Tim, and I trekked through the orchard and picked apples right off the tree to take home.

Now that I’ve got these apples, I want to do something simply delicious with them.  Eating them fresh is certainly the easiest, but I also love to grill apples with squash and pork tenderloin or chops for a great autumn meal. What’s really “alfresco” about this is that not only do you get to be outdoors in the fresh air, but you also cook everything outside, so  you keep the order in your kitchen (and if you’re really thinking, you send your significant other out to the grill). You picked the apples from nature, and the dish is a thing of beauty.  Three little words can take you far.

Grilled Pork Chops with Squash, Apples, and Cider-Bourbon Jus

The flavors in this dish go together so well that everyone at the table will belong to the Clean Plate Club. For easy grilling, microcook the squash until it’s almost done, then give it a little char on the grill to finish. Golden Delicious apples work great for quick grilling because they’re naturally sweeter with a softer texture than apples like Jonathan or Granny Smith.

Serves 4.

Cider-Bourbon Jus

1 cup cider or apple juice

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon bourbon or rum

Salt and white pepper to taste

4 Golden Delicious apples, tops & bottoms trimmed off

2 Acorn squash, halved horizontally, seeds removed, and microcooked on HIGH for 8 minutes

4 boneless pork loin chops, cut ¾-inch thick

Salt and white pepper to taste

1. To make the Cider-Bourbon Jus, bring the cider to a boil over high heat in a saucepan. Let it cook for 10 to 15 minutes or until it has reduced to ½ cup. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter and bourbon. Season to taste. Transfer 1/3 cup to a small ramekin and set the remaining jus aside.

2. Prepare a hot fire in a grill. Oil a perforated grill rack and have it ready by the grill.

3. While the grill is heating, slice the partially cooked squash into ¾-inch rings and place on a baking sheet. Brush each ring with a little of the jus, season to taste with salt and white pepper, then rearrange into stacks. Slice each apple into 4 horizontal slices, then use a paring knife to remove the core in each slice. Place the apple rings on the baking sheet and brush each with a little of the jus. On a separate baking sheet, place the pork chops and brush both sides with the last of the jus in the ramekin. Sprinkle each chop with salt and white pepper to taste.

4. At the grill, place the apple rings on the prepared perforated grill rack. Place the grill rack on the grill, close the lid, and grill for 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the apple slices with grill tongs, close the lid, and grill for 2 to 3 minutes more or until the apple rings are marked and they “give” when gently squeezed with the grill tongs. Transfer the apple rings to the baking sheet and place the squash rings on the grill rack. Close the lid and grill for 4 minutes, turn and grill for 3 to 4 minutes more or until the squash rings are marked and cooked through. Transfer to the baking sheet. Remove the perforated grill rack. Place the pork chops on the grill and grill for 7 ½ minutes, turning once.

To serve, arrange the squash and apple rings around the pork and drizzle everything with the reserved jus.

Enjoy!
*judith

Bouled Over

I’m just catching up from a media trip to Toronto last week—a whirlwind of television, radio, internet, print media, and two events at First Canadian Place with packed houses both times. (See the video from LeGourmet TV below).

I’m a big fan of interior designer Sarah Richardson (Sarah’s House, Design Inc. on the Fine Living cable network), so I was delighted to spend a little time in her city. And also delighted to spy actor Sam Neill having dinner at Nota Bene, one table down from us.

Bright lights, big city—count me in!

Last time, we entered the world of no-knead, one bowl artisan bread with the basic recipe—just four ingredients. Now, that’s fresh idea. Keep it simple.

When you want to form a boule—a round loaf—just remove half of the dough from the bowl and pat it into a round. This dough does most of the work for you. Just remember to pinch any seams together so the dough has one smooth skin.

If you want to make a batard or a fatter baguette, and make one with a little drama, try this new recipe. Just because your cookbook has been published doesn’t mean you’re still not having fun coming up with new ideas. After all, that’s one of the premises of the book—use the recipes as blueprints to come up with your own signature breads.

One-Bowl, No-Knead Wild Rice Batard

Can you whip up a batch of brownies from a mix? Sure, you can. Well, those are the basic skills you need to make this savory, one-bowl, no-knead artisan bread, believe it or not. Follow 10 easy steps and you’re on your way—without expensive equipment, lots of time, or baker’s angst. Use instant or bread machine yeast, available in jars in the baking section, as it can just be stirred into the flour. More moisture in the dough takes the place of kneading. And you’ll know when your bread is done by taking its temperature (with an instant read thermometer). What’s even better, this dough follows your lead: You can bake right after the dough has risen or wait a couple of days. If only the rest of our lives worked like that. . .

Makes 1 loaf to serve 8 to 12

3 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose or bread flour, plus more for dusting

1 tbsp instant or bread machine yeast

3/4 tbsp fine table salt

1 ½ tsp ground white pepper

¾ cup cooked wild rice or shortgrain black pearl rice, patted dry with paper towels

1 1/2 cups lukewarm water, about 100°F

2 tbsp honey

¼ cup cornmeal for sprinkling

2 cups hot water for broiler pan

1. Measure. Spoon the flours into a measuring cup, level with a knife or your finger, then dump the flour into a large mixing bowl.


2. Mix. Add the yeast, salt, ground white pepper, and cooked rice to the flours. Stir together with a wooden spoon. Stir the water and honey together, then pour into the dry ingredients. Stir together until just moistened. Beat 40 strokes, scraping the bottom and the sides of the bowl, until the dough forms a lumpy, sticky mass.


3. Rise. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature 72°F for 2 hours or until the dough has risen near the top of the bowl and has a sponge-like appearance.


4. Use Right Away or Refrigerate. Use that day or place the dough, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days before baking.


5. Form. To form a batard, remove the dough with a dough scraper to a floured surface and dust very lightly with flour. Flour your hands. Working the dough as little as possible and adding flour as necessary, form the dough into a 14-inch cylinder. Smooth the dough with your hands to form a soft, non-sticky skin. Pinch any seams together to prevent “blow-outs” as the loaf bakes. Pinch each end into a point. Lightly flour any sticky places on the dough. The dough should feel soft and smooth all over, like a baby’s skin (but with lumps from the rice), not at all sticky.


6. Rest. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and place the dough on the baking sheet. Cover with a tea towel and let rest at room temperature for 40 minutes.


7. Prepare Oven for Artisan Baking. About 30 minutes before baking, place a broiler pan on the lower shelf. Preheat to 450°F.


8. Slash Batard with Serrated Knife. When ready to bake, the dough will not have risen much, but will finish rising dramatically in the oven. Using a serrated knife, make five evenly spaced diagonal slashes across and down the length of the dough—about 1-inch deep—exposing the moist dough under the surface. The slashes help the batard bake more evenly and add an attractive pattern where the exposed moist dough “blows out.”

9. Slide Batard into Oven and Add Water to Broiler Pan. Place the baking sheet on the middle rack of the oven. Pull the lower rack out, pour the hot water into the broiler pan, and push the lower rack back in place.


10. Bake. Bake for 27 to 29 minutes or until the crust is a medium dark brown and an instant read thermometer inserted in the center of the loaf registers at least 190°F. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

Fast and Easy Bread Video

Here's a spot I did with LeGourmet.TV. Click the link below to watch a brief introduction of bread baking and the simple tools needed.

Fast and Easy Bread Intro | WatchDoit

Shared via AddThis

*judith

Give Me the Simple Life

Are you a “Simplifier?” A person who is trying to whittle your life down to a more manageable size?

If so, we’re on the same wavelength.

During the past calendar year, I’ve worked on 5 cookbooks, so I put aside the blog until that work was done. Now, I’ve got lots of fresh ideas to share and time to blog. And the first “fresh” idea is utterly simple: fast, easy artisan bread. How can artisan bread be fast or easy, you might ask?

Well, first of all, you only need four ingredients: all-purpose or bread flour, instant or bread machine yeast, water, and salt. You stir the ingredients together in a bowl and let it rise on your kitchen counter for 2 hours.

That means one bowl, no kneading. Easy.

After that, you use the dough to bake that day or you cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate it for up to 9 days. You can bake all kinds of loaves, rolls, flatbreads, etc. whenever you have the time. Fast!

You know exactly what’s in the bread, you’re saving money, eating well, and feeling accomplished. Genius!

Here’s the basic recipe for you to try. Make up your dough, put it in the frig, and come back another day. We’ll make a stunningly easy Wild Rice Batard.

Master Recipe #1 Easy Artisan Dough

(from 200 Fast and Easy Artisan Breads: No Knead, One Bowl by Judith Fertig)

This first master recipe introduces you to the basics of the Easy Artisan bread method. As you begin to make bread, all of this will get even easier. Your artisan loaves will have a crisp, darkened crust, a tender and moist crumb, and a mellow, toasty flavor—all with this easy method. The dough will also make delicious rolls, pizza, or flat bread. Makes bread, rolls, pizza, or flatbread to serve 12 to 16.

Equipment:

Measuring cups and spoons

Instant read thermometer

16-cup (4 L) bowl

6 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose or bread flour, plus more for dusting 1.575 L

1 ½ tbsp instant or bread machine yeast 22 mL

1 ½ tbsp fine table or kosher salt 22 mL

3 cups lukewarm water, about 100°F (38 °C) 750 mL

1. Measure. Spoon the flour into a measuring cup, level with a knife or your finger, then dump the flour into a large mixing bowl.

2. Mix. Add the yeast and salt to the flour. Stir together with a wooden spoon or Danish dough whisk. Pour in the water and stir together until just moistened. Beat 40 strokes, scraping the bottom and the sides of the bowl, until the dough forms a lumpy, sticky mass.

3. Rise. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature 72°F (22 °C) for 2 hours or until the dough has risen near the top of the bowl and has a sponge-like appearance.

4. Use Right Away or Refrigerate. Use that day or place the dough, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to 9 days before baking.

*judith